Hiking

Linking the Coast Mountains with the Cariboo Mountains is a vast area that is steep with history. This is the land that Alexander Mackenzie walked through way back in 1793, and he followed footpaths that had already been in existence for thousands of years. Other historical trails have fallen into disuse and out of memory, but there are still endless routes to explore on the Chilcotin plateau and in the Cariboo forests. However, the more dramatic hiking is found in the mountain ranges. Some of the hot spots for hiking are listed below.

Nuxalk Carrier / Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Grease Trail: Mackenzie was the first European to cross North America, reaching the Pacific in 1793. Just south of where the Blackwater River flows into the Fraser, he began his trek by land. This historic 420 km route, originally called the Grease Trail, has been mostly preserved as it cuts across the landscape of Central BC. The trail includes a variety of roads and trails, including about 100 km of well-preserved aboriginal footpath (Pick up a copy of “In the Steps of Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Trail Guidebook”)

Tweedsmuir Provincial Park: From the low, Costal rainforest of the Atnarko Valley, to the high, colourful alpine of the Rainbow Range, Tweedsmuir is a land of contrasts, and of great beauty. The Nuxalk Carrier / Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Grease Trail runs through Tweedsmuir Park, but it's not the only trail of length in this park. The Tweedsmuir Trail leads north about 35 km to the Rainbow Cabin on the Alexander Mackenzie Heritage Trail. The Rainbow Range Trail (easy; 16 km return) heads north from Hwy 20 near the park's eastern boundary, leading to an alpine environment offering an excellent viewpoint of the multihued Rainbow Range. These volcanic mountains are aptly named with streaks of red, yellow and magenta. Mostly above tree line, the hiking routes here are unlimited as you make your way from ridge to ridge, with lakes and meadows and good camping sites. Hikers attempting the Hunlen Falls / Turner Lakes Trail (strenuous /58 km return) along the Atnarko River should allow 10 to 12 hours to reach the north end of Turner Lake. This trail passes through prime grizzly bear habitat, and hikers should use caution at all times. Once you reach Turner Lake and Hunlen Falls, there are other trails to explore. West of Hunlen Falls, there is good alpine hiking along the Ptarmigan Lake Trail (moderate; 24 km return), which ascends to Panorama Ridge.

Ts'yl-os Provincial Park: Experienced hikers can undertake a 4 to 6-day loop trek, heading west through the Tchaikazan Valley then back through the Yohetta Valley. The trail is linked by going over Spectrum Pass and by Dorothy Lake. From the trail are several other hiking adventures you can enjoy. This is remote country, so be ready for the unexpected and always keep safety in mind (To access this part of the Chilcotin, take Hwy. 20 west from Williams Lake, go south at Hanceville on the Chilko Lake Road). Also in the Park at the north end of Chilko Lake is the well-marked Tullin Mountain Trail (easy; 12 km return). This excellent day hike has an elevation gain of 2,400 feet (730 m) and can be linked with trails to explore the mountains of the Potato Range.

Wells / Barkerville: The North Cariboo region of B.C. offers a rich treasure of hiking possibilities of which few people are aware. There is a terrific legacy of trails from the Cariboo Gold Rush with scenery that is often superb. Multi-day hikes frame the area on the north and the south with the spectacular Cariboo Mountains providing the backdrop to every trail. Many historic trails have been revived in recent years and some great new trails have been developed. This area is home to several exhilarating trails including the Mount Agnes Trail that goes from Barkerville to Richfield following the route of the original Cariboo Wagon Trail to Summit Rock. You can also attempt a longer hike up the famous Yank's Peak (19 kms from Keithley Creek to Barkerville) mining road over the Cariboo Mountains. Breathtaking scenery, old mines, wildlife and rolling alpine are encountered on the route.

Cameron Ridge Trails: A series of trails are found off an old mining road north of Maeford Lake on the Cariboo Lake Road, north of Likely. The Cameron Ridge Trail (14-km round trip) winds through sub-alpine forest and meadows along windswept ridges. The Cariboo Mountains Lookout at the 3-km point of the trail sits atop a 1,000-metre cliff dropping straight down into the North Arm of Quesnel Lake (Access to the trailhead is located 70 km from Likely). There are over 20 kms of moderate trails to explore in this area.

Clinton Area – the Marble Range: The Marble Range is notable for its series of folded limestone ridges and castellated peaks. This is a region of beautiful wooded valleys, grassy valley bottoms, and alpine ridges. Peaks are mostly gentle offering some of the best ridge hiking in the Cariboo. Others have steep sections offering scrambling. The area has very little surface water so hikers should be prepared to carry enough water from the trailhead to supply all their needs. Two notable hikes are Mt. Bowman (2246m, 14 kms return), and Mt. Kerr (2278m, 23 kms return) via Wild Horse Ridge. To gain access to the trailheads, head west at the south end of Clinton on the Kelly Lake Road. After 17km turn right on the Jesmond Road. Stop after 23km on the Jesmond Road at the Circle H Ranch (currently a caretaker is in residence – park and ask for permission to cross the property). Cross through the property exiting through a fence at the rear where you will find a sign for the “Pipeline Trail”. Continue up the clearing heading right on a trail leading to a road continuing along the power line. A short walk up this road takes you to the trail/road heading up the valley. At 4.2 km you will reach a junction with the left trail heading to Mt. Bowman. The right trail continues up the creek valley to Wild Horse Ridge and Mt. Kerr.

Spruce Lake Trails: The Spruce Lake area offers world-class hiking and backpacking, horse packing, mountaineering, fishing and mountain biking in South Chilcotin Provincial Park and the Chilcotin Range. There are 164 kms of wilderness trails in the area, which traverse over gentle mountain passes and meander through lush alpine grasslands and flowers to destination trout lakes. The main access point into the area is from Gold Bridge, north of Lillooet.

Williams Lake River Valley: This is a 14 km one way hike through the Williams Lake River Valley and canyon that stretches from its origin at Williams Lake to the river’s confluence with the Fraser River. The river drops over 500 feet as it meanders past meadows, hoodoos, sagebrush, juniper, and grassy benches.

Hazards: Weather and climate conditions vary from year to year but generally the hiking season, governed by the presence or absence of snow, is from early July to mid-October, though some lower altitude trails are open in May or June. Always take a compass and a map on wilderness trips. Carry more than enough food, water and protective clothing as well as a first aid kit. Be “Bear Aware” at all times and avoid bear encounters. Generally, dogs are not a good idea in the wilderness. They tend to chase wild animals and can attract bears. If you do take a dog, keep it under control. Practice standard wilderness ethics and keep this environment pristine.

A word or two on your excursion:

  • Please leave the area you visit undisturbed and be sure to carry out your garbage
  • If travelling with pets, be aware that restrictions may apply
  • Obey posted signs and keep to designated trails
  • Cougars, bears and other wildlife inhabit the region