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Chilcotin Freedom Highway 20

Williams Lake to Bella Coola

Highway 20 is 457 km (285 mi.). Approximately 400 kms are paved and the remaining 57 km’s consist of well-maintained gravel.

The trip can easily be completed in a day, but why? We recommend anywhere from 2 to 3 days to complete the drive and highly recommend a couple days in the Bella Coola Valley to explore the central coast.

Driving west

At Sheep Creek Bridge, just west of Williams Lake, view the spectacular Fraser River. In the fall the Tsilhoqot’in (Chilcotin) fish with long-handled dip nets as their ancestors before them did. During the gold rush Chinese farmers cultivated market gardens here. After crossing the bridge, the road climbs to the 1,200-meter high Chilcotin plateau. Here lies rangeland ideal for roaming cattle and cowboys tending their herd. Remember to slow down and watch for cattle along the highway.

Loran C. Tower, 13 km west of the bridge, on the north side of Highway 20, is a huge maritime navigation tower. Drop in most days from 9am to 4pm or phone ahead (659-5611) for a guided tour.

Riske Creek, (46km west of Williams Lake), is the site of the earliest established ranches in the area. Services: small grocery store, lodging, restaurant and a gas station at the Toosey Indian Reserve (diesel & gas). A sani-station is available at the Chilcotin Lodge; inquire about fee for use.

Recommended Side Route: Farwell Canyon is located 15km south of Riske Creek along Farwell Canyon Road. The Chilcotin River cuts deeply into the sandstone cliffs. Native pictographs can be seen on the overhang, south of the bridge. In the fall native fishermen fish the river using dip nets. There are hiking trails in the area. Also along this road is the Junction Wildlife Management Reserve home to one -fifth of the world’s population of California Bighorns. Continue on for another 5km and see ancient hoodoo rock formations. The Chilcotin River is rated among the best in North America for kayaking and whitewater rafting.

Next along Highway 20 is Hanceville (89km) or Lee’s Corner, home of Norman Lee’s original ranch. Services: small grocery store, restaurant, liquor store, laundromat, post office, and gas station with diesel, gas and propane.

Recommended Explorer Side Route: The south gravel road (before the store) branches east towards Farwell Canyon or west past Stone Band Reserve to Taseko Lake, Nemaiah Valley, Chilko Lake and other remote locations. Nemaiah Valley (approx. 110km along gravel road) is home to the Nemaiah Indian Band, a member of the Chilcotin people who are part of the Athapascan group. Services: small grocery store with some camping supplies, post office and gas station (gas only).

Alexis Creek (113km) is the area service center with RCMP and Red Cross stations located here. Services: grocery store, post office, lodging, restaurants and gas stations (propane, gas & diesel).

Bull Canyon Provincial Park (121km) is located 10km west of Alexis Creek. The park has 20 campsites on the Chilcotin River.

Puntzi Lake (175km) has numerous White Pelicans, which call the lake home in the spring and summer and Trumpeter Swans from the fall to freeze-up. Services: lodging and a restaurant. Nearby Chilanko Marsh has been improved by Ducks Unlimited for nesting waterfowl.

Tatla Lake (235 km) is the Gateway to the West Chilcotin. Services: grocery store, lodging, post office, mechanic and tire repairs, power washing and gas stations (propane & gas).

Recommended Explorer Side Route: Chilko Lake South of Tatla Lake is Chilko Lake, (approx. 80km along gravel road) which is located in the Ts’yl-os ("sigh-loss") Provincial Park. The lake is the largest, natural, high-elevation fresh-water lake in North America. The glacial fed waters are too cold for swimming; however, water sports such as boating, kayaking, canoeing and windsurfing are popular. Be aware that high winds and rough waters are frequent on the lake. Chilko Lake also hosts BC’s 3rd largest Chinook/Sockeye salmon run from August to October. Also south of Tatla Lake is Tatlayoko Lake. In the Potato Mountain Range there are ice caves and fossils indicating an ancient seabed.

Nimpo Lake (303km) the next major community on Highway 20 is the floatplane capital of BC and center for air charters to fly-in fishing and remote locations. Services: grocery store, auto service, liquor store, lodging, post office, restaurant, and gas stations (propane, diesel & gas). Attractions: 5km northwest of Nimpo Lake a plaque commemorates the Chilcotin war. Native Chilcotins fought the expansions of the colonial government.

Anahim Lake (320km) is located 15 minutes from Nimpo Lake. Services: post office, grocery stores, lodging, RCMP station, restaurant, airport, medical center, Provincial Ambulance service and gas (propane, gas & diesel). Attractions: Every July is the Anahim Lake Stampede, a large social event and showcase for local talent. From Anahim Lake is access to the three main mountain ranges; the Itcha Range, the Ilgatchuz Range and the multi colored Rainbow Range. 18km north of Anahim Lake is the Dean River Road where you can follow the Dean River and view the Rainbow Range.

Tweedsmuir Provincial Park (350km) contains the Hunlen Falls, Turner Lake chain and the Rainbow Range. Visitors are able to view these by aircraft charter from Nimpo Lake or Bella Coola. Those with more energy will enjoy hiking into the park.

The "HILL" (380km) through Heckman's Pass in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park is known for its 18% grade into the Bella Coola Valley. Provincial authorities did not believe that a road should be built over the Coast Mountains. The locals then decided to build one themselves. With only two bulldozers, working from opposite ends, supplies bought on credit and a work force that often had only the promise of being paid, they finally ended Bella Coola’s isolation in 1953 by completing the "Freedom Road" up out of the Bella Coola Valley to the plateau. Heckman’s Pass, the highest point on Highway 20 (elevation 1524 meters or 5000 feet) is the beginning of the 30km / 20mi. descent on a narrow and winding gravel hill to the Bella Coola Valley. The hill consists of a 9km / 6mi. stretch of switchbacks with a grade up to 18%. Please use the provided areas to allow your brakes to cool.

Stuie (385km) is located at the bottom if the "Hill". This community was the traditional meeting place for Bella Coola and interior natives on the Atnarko River. Look for petropglyphs; visit the nearby Fisheries spawning channels and salmon viewing pool. Burnt Bridge offers a one to two hour hiking trail loop along the Alexander Mackenzie Trial.

Hagensborg (440km) was settled by Norwegians from Minnesota USA, who saw similarities between this coastal valley and their homeland. Restorations have begun to preserve examples of the square-timbered buildings that were built with hand tools. Nusatsum (Nusats'm) River Road, located 7 km's east of Hagensborg, offering views of Odegaard Falls and glaciers leading to South Bentinck Arm. Two new bailey bridges have been put in. With a 4x4 vehicle or a vehicle with good clearance you can drive beyond Odegaard Falls Trailhead once all snow has melted. This trailhead gives access to Ape Lake trail and crossing Odegaard pass, the shallow watershed from the Nusatsum into the Noeik, to Purgatory lookout...spectacular!

Bella Coola (457km) is the western terminus of the Chilcotin Road - Highway 20. Services: Bella Coola and Hagensborg offer grocery stores, gas stations (propane, gas & diesel), restaurants, post offices, lodging and two cash machines, one in the Thunderbird Store and one in the Tallio Gas Bar. Interac is also available in most places. This coastal village is a gateway to many adventurous excursions, such as glacier viewing, fishing, and coastal exploring. Bella Coola’s waterfront provides an interesting collection of fishing boats, pleasure boats, cannery sites, tidal flats and other facilities. Clayton Falls, accessible from the road and short walking trail, is worth viewing. Other points of interest include the Bella Coola Museum, Snootli Creek Fish Hatchery, and the Giant Cedar Tree.

BC Ferries operates the Discovery Coast Passage ferry between Bella Coola and Port Hardy so travelers can complete the circle tour via Vancouver Island. It is a spectacular ride! The Ferry also stops at Ocean Falls, Shearwater, Klemtu and McLoughlin Bay.

Operators